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If I think about changes in Cartagena over the 11 years I lived there from 2011 to 2022 and continuing today, it’s hard not to see Getsemaní as emblematic of it.
This historic neighborhood, often considered the cradle of Cartagenero culture has changed a lot over the last couple decades from a working class neighborhood to a backpacker haven on the tourist fringe to being lauded as Colombia’s trendiest neighborhood and firmly on the mainstream tourist map today.
Read on to learn more about Barrio Getsemaní in Cartagena, Colombia, including an overview of its history and the best things to do and see in this historic and colorful neighborhood.
Getsemaní, Cartagena: Overview and Quick Tips
As noted above, Getsemaní has changed a lot in recent years.
It is now the second most touristic part of Cartagena, only after the adjacent Walled City of Cartagena, and has plenty of higher end boutique hotels and upscale restaurants to go along with some remaining backpacker hostels and local haunts.
Fortunately, it’s still managed to retain much of its authentic character, which makes exploring Getsemaní a must during any visit to Cartagena.
I think doing something like this walking tour that includes the Walled City and Getsemaní is a great introduction to the neighoborhood.
However, you’ll want to come back and take some time to enjoy the vibrant street art and check out some of the restaurants, cafés, bars, and nightclubs too.
If you want to stay here, I’d recommend the Hotel Capellán, Osh Hotel, or Case Tere.
If you’re on a budget, you can still find places like Media Luna Hostel, the OG backpacker hostel Cartagena or slightly nicer shared digs at spots like Santuario Hostel too.
I’ll go into lots more detail about places to stay, things to see, and some of our favorite places to eat and drink in Getsemaní below, so read on to learn all about this historic Cartagena neighborhood.
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Getsemaní History: Birthplace of Cartagena’s Caribbean Culture
Getsemaní is often considered the cradle of Cartagenero culture, with its working class history and mixing of cultural traditions, made possible by the cosmopolitan nature of Cartagena’s status as a major colonial trading port, including the trade in slaves.
It remained largely a local barrio until recent decades saw the spread of tourism into the neighborhood.
Getsemaní on the Periphery
Cartagena, or more officially, Cartagena de Indias, was founded in 1533, with the Centro, often called the Walled City today, being the first area to be settled by Spanish colonizers.
However, by 1600, there was at least some settlement on the adjacent island of Getsemaní, including the San Francisco Convent and a slaughterhouse, and by 1630, plans were made to fortify the growing neighborhood.
Once these walls were built, the Puerta de la Media Luna, located roughly at the end of the Calle de la Media Luna and long lost to history, was considered the official entrance to the colonial city, in contrary to the common assumption that it was the Clocktower.
Less of Getsemaní’s walls remain today compared to the Centro but several long sections do remain.
Historically, despite its inclusion in the plans for the defense of the city, Getsemaní was seen as on the periphery and it was home to mostly artisans, such as masons, blacksmiths, shipwrights, carpenters, barbers, and fishermen.
According to a census taken in 1777, the late colonial period, there were just over 4,000 residents living in Getsemaní, about 30% of the total population at the time (source here).
Residents of Getsemaní played a key role in the events of Cartagena’s Declaration of Independence on November 11, 1811, arming themselves and surrounding the governing council to pressure them to pass a resolution declaring absolute independence from Spain.
In 1904, a new city market was opened roughly where the Convention Center is located today. Getsemaní remained a largely working class neighborhood but the market helped bring jobs and income to its residents.
The movement of the market to its current location in Bazurto in 1978 paved the way for Getsemaní to be placed once again on the neglected periphery of the growing tourist industry in Centro and Bocagrande.
Getsemaní at the Turn of the 21st Century: Gentrification or Renewal?
By the 1990s, as most of Centro had been developed, there was renewed interest in developing Getsmaní and so began the gentrification of the neighborhood.
I remember still thinking parts of Getsemaní felt a bit sketchy when I arrived to Cartagena 2011. I spent quite a few weekend nights staying at the Hotel Marlin on the Calle de la Media Luna, long since changed to something different and surely much more expensive, once I got a girlfriend.
The reality is the neighborhood, even as it was increasingly becoming a part of the tourist scene, was still largely run down from decades of neglect.
In 2013, the community invited street artists from around the world to paint the streets, helping to revitalize and give the streets a facelift. There’s a great write up of some of the most famous pieces and their origin in this article at No Maps or Foot Tracks.
Around that same time, I started spending more and more time hanging out in the Plaza de la Trinidad, enjoying cheap beers from the corner store.
At first, the crowd was largely foreign, Western and Latino, backpackers and expats like myself along with people from the neighborhood. Getsemaní residents played chess on the benches, and kids played soccer. Increasingly, more and more locals from other neighborhoods came to enjoy the scene, along with more tourists, and not just backpackers, as it became one of the city’s coolest hangout spots.
Around this time the neighborhood starting earning accolades as the coolest neighborhood in Colombia. Residents started hanging umbrellas over streets, beginning with the Callejón Angosto.
Coincidence or not, this melded perfectly with the growth of Instagram, (see below on the best photo ops by the way).
More street art, more colorful hanging umbrellas and flags, and more accolades followed, along with fancier and fancier hotels, cafes and restaurants.
Today, the plaza is normally packed on weekend evenings and feels much less like a hidden gem. You’re more likely to see fire twirlers or other street performers than kids playing soccer, and the tienda beers aren’t nearly as cheap.
There’s always been an air of contrast here.
Maybe that’s precisely what made it so trendy, and dare I say, made us feel edgy for hanging out here, but it’s increasingly fading as Getsemaní starts to feel more and more like just an extension of Centro.
Still, there does remain an authentically local vibe even as few locals remain living in the neighborhood, making way for the inevitable(?) march of tourism.
That march is perhaps best represented by the soon to open Four Seasons, spanning a series of renovated buildings, including the San Francisco Convent.
Veiled social criticism aside, exploring Getsemaní is an absolute must during your time in Cartagena, and its contributions to Cartagena’s history, culture, and growing international tourist scene are immense.
Why You Should Consider Staying in Getsemaní
As part of that gentrification march of tourism, not only is just about all of Getsemaní quite safe, but there are a number of nicer places to stay now, definitely nicer than the Hotel Marlin.
Put simply, you don’t need to be a grungy backpacker, broke volunteer, or avid partier to stay here.
In fact, I would consider it a fine choice for just about any kind of traveler today, including families or adults looking for a laid back and comfortable trip.
After the Centro, it’s my number 2 recommended of the best areas to stay in Cartagena for basically the same reason as Centro is number 1: it’s so easy to walk to so many restaurants and attractions, including to those inside the Walled City.
For nicer digs in Getsemaní, the Hotel Capellán is lovely and is among the best luxury hotels in Cartagena period. I think their 2 bedroom suites can make an especially good choice for families.
By the way that Four Seasons will be opening soon, and should be the finest luxury hotel in Getsemaní and possibly all of Cartagena.
There are a number of good nice midrange options here. The GHL Arsenal Hotel has a nice rooftop pool with a view, is one of the small number of boutiques that offers double twin beds, and its location across the street from the Convention Center is just a stone’s throw away from the Walled City.
I also consistently hear good things about Osh Hotel.
Casa Tere, Casa Pizarro, Casa Isabel, and Patio de Getsemaní all are good options at more affordable prices.
And if you are a grungy backpacker, there’s still some options here for you too!
Media Luna is the OG Cartagena backpacker and party hostel. Santuario offers a nice concept with semi-private container style dorms with a social atmosphere. Selina offers a bit more of a boutique, dare I say yuppie, backpacker vibe, while Casa Zahri and Mama Waldy are two of the more affordable hostels that still get good reviews.
Things to Do in Getsemaní
Like the Walled City, you have to explore Getsemaní during a visit to Cartagena.
There are lots of neat colonial era style homes here too, and the streets are vibrant and colorful with a very much lived in feel that speaks to the neighborhoods working class roots.
Much like in Centro, you can explore here on your own, but you can also get a lot out of a guided tour. This shared walking of Centro and Getsemaní is a great option that takes you to the highlights of both historic neighborhoods, giving you both a crash course on the city’s history but also how to get around to come back and explore on your own later.
You can read my review of that Cartagena walking tour here.
For a more exclusive experience, you can book a private walking tour of Getsemaní via our travel agency partner. They also offer a combined tour to Getsemaní and the Bazurto Market. Get 20% off either of those tours with the code ExploreColombia20.
There’s also this walking tour that focuses on both Getsemaní’s historic highlights and its graffiti.
Regardless if you do a guided experience or explore on your own, you’ll want to check out the street art and colorful flags and umbrellas that overhang many of the streets.
If you head across to Getsemaní from Centro and the Clocktower, you can pass through the Parque Centenario, keeping an eye out for the monkeys, slots, and iguanas that call the park home.
Next to the park, you’ll find the Calle de la Magdelena and Calle de la Tripita y Media, with colorful decorations overhead and lots of cafes, bars and restaurants
Cross over the Calle de la Media Luna, passing the famous Cafe Havana to head towards the Plaza de la Trinidad.
During the day, the heat means there’s usually not a lot going on here, but make sure you remember how to get here, because you’ll want to come back at night.
You’ll find the open air art gallery of Calle de los Cuadros and the murals by Café del Mural to the right of the church as well as the Calle de la Sierpe and its street art and flags from around the world overhead as it snakes back out towards Centro.
To the left side of the church, you’ll find tons of neatly decorated streets and street art.
Highlights here include the Callejón Angosto, the first Cartagena street to be decorated with colorful umbrellas, and the surrounding streets of Calle de la Lomba and Callejón Ancho.
You can also head out to the remaining sections of the walls of Getsemaní. There are great views of the Castillo San Felipe from here.
Pretty in the day, this area comes even more alive during the evening. Day or night, you’ll probably want to make some pit stops to cool off and recharge while exploring Barrio Getsemaní too.
So, let’s talk about where to eat, drink, and party.
Where to Eat and Drink in Getsemaní
Much like Centro, there’s no shortage of places to eat and drink in Getsemaní. So, this will be far from exhaustive but highlight a few favorites.
As mentioned above, you’ll find a slew of bars and restaurants on the Calle Tripita y Media ranging from cheap eats and street food to a few nicer sit down places.
You’ll also find Beer Lovers, which has a good craft beer selection here and a Getsemaní location of the popular Clock Pub on this street.
Around the Plaza de la Trinidad, you’ll find one of our forever favorite restaurants in Cartagena. Da Silvio was actually our second date and has good pasta and pizza at fairly reasonable prices in a charming old building.
Demente, which recently closed was our favorite pizza place. It’s a cool little building, so hopefully something nice opens there.
The Café de la Trinidad also serves a bit of everything at reasonable prices.
Of course, you’ll also find great street food from stalls set up in the plaza itself.
They only set up come evening, and the food here makes a good complement to people watching with beers from the corner store. I recommend a picada, but a patacón con todo or street perro also hits the spot.
Learn more in my guide to Cartagena street food.
Laguna Azul, on the backside of the Centro Comercial de Getsemaní on Calle Larga has terrific ceviches at affordable prices and is a hidden gem.
We also have always loved the food trucks at Terraza Municipal. There’s a decent variety of food here, along with beers, wines, cocktails, and other tasty refreshments overlooking the bay. It’s a great place for a casual and relaxed dinner. The view of the sunset here is great too.
Nearby, almost at the end of Calle del Arsenal, you’ll find another favorite of ours: Leon de Baviera. Run by a German transplant, this place has been playing rock music, showing European soccer, and serving up authentic brats since before I arrived in Cartagena.
I’ve spent many a fun evening with buddies here, not to mention caught many a Colombia, Champions, UEFA, and World Cup match here. I can confirm after our last visit when we caught a Copa America match here, that it remains a good, unpretentious, and fairly reasonably priced place for some good food and beers, and it’s a great place to watch a match.
Lunatico, located by the remaining walls and with a great view of the fort, has an extensive menu of locally inspired creative dishes. They also do a great breakfast and bottomless brunch.
I really enjoyed their cooking class (see my review here) with my mom and also a rum tasting (see my review here) I did here on our most recent return trip.
They also have a craft beer tasting and a mixology class that look like they’d be fun. There is another rum tasting at El Arsenal, which is well known for their cocktails and food.
Celele is arguably Cartagena’s finest dining experience and its unique and eclectic creations is a must for foodies coming to visit Cartagena. You can read my review of Celele here.
Finally, a final neat food experience in Getsemaní is the make your own ice cream workshop using artisanal methods (good old fashioned stirring!). I’ve heard great things about this from several people and it looks like a lot of fun! We considered taking our niece but couldn’t fit it in during our most recent trip.
However, for an even neater experience, head to the Café del Mural. This eclectic coffee shop doesn’t open until the afternoon, and it does make a good spot to get an afternoon second wind.
In the mornings, the owner David, who has a background in engineering and is described on their website as a sort of Walter White of coffee, gives a unique and informative workshop on the coffee harvest, production, and brewing process. You can read my review of the Café del Mural Cartagena coffee tasting here.
Now let’s talk about where to party in Getsemaní.
Nightlife in Getsemaní
As mentioned above, Getsemaní has a vibrant nightlife, and even if you’re not looking to party hard, it’s worth coming to check out the lively atmosphere in the evening.
As I’ve mentioned several times by now, the Plaza de la Trinidad is a popular hangout place for Cartageneros and foreign visitors of all types. You can grab a cheaper beer from the corner tienda or have a cocktail from vendors in the plaza or at one of the bars surrounding it.
Tables and chairs set up on some of the colorfully decorated streets around here are also good places to enjoy a relaxed drink, and there are also a number of watering holes of all types on the Calle Tripita y Media.
If you want a fancy cocktail, El Arsenal Rum Box, located diagonal from the Convention Center, is also well regarded for creative cocktails.
Nearby Caponera, almost directly across from the Clocktower is one of the best unpretentious bars in all of Cartagena and always a favorite of ours. Drinks here are relatively reasonably priced and tons of old photos, posters, signs, and other relics give it a lived in feel to go with the salsa music usually turned up loud.
If you want to party a bit harder, there are plenty of choices in Getsemaní too.
If you want salsa ,dancing don’t be shy about dancing in Caponera, but you could also check out Quebracanto, Vueltabajero, or the long running Cafe Havana.
Club Seven 7 Times has also become one of the best regarded nightclubs in Cartagena and has different rooms with different themes and music.
There are some other bars and nightclubs scattered down the rest of the Calle de la Media Luna.
The Calle del Arsenal also used to be lined with popular discotecas, including the long famous Mister Babilla, although it and a number of the other ones have closed. Club Taboo is still here. It’s common for party bus Chivas to finish the night here and it can get crowded, but it does offer a bit more of a traditional nightclub experience.
You’ll find Leon de Baviera offering rock music, sometimes with live bands, and a more subdued atmosphere for beers at the end of Calle del Arsenal too.
Safety in Getsemaní and Other Practical Tips
Given the neighborhood’s history on the fringe of Centro and rundown status at the dawn of the 21st century, I often hear people ask, “Is Getsemaní safe?”
The answer is yes…for the most part.
In the past, I would have characterized Getsemaní as definitely a bit seedier than Centro.
That’s still somewhat true, but the area feels much more “mainstream” today than before. Robberies and pickpockets don’t really happen much more often than inside the Walled City today, but I’d still exercise extra caution walking around late at night, especially off the major thoroughfares around the Plaza de la Trinidad.
There’s also a stretch of the road running from the India Catalina statue to the end of Calle Media Luna that has a lot of little shops, bars, and motorcycle taxis that I’d be wary of and probably just try to avoid even during the day.
Ditto for the La Matuna area behind Centro Uno in general, although there are some stands back there where you can find good, cheaper souvenirs.
Learn more about how best to stay safe here and elsewhere in my post on Cartagena safety tips.
There are several ATMs around the Convention Center if you need to take out cash in Getsemaní, but they have a bit of a penchant for running out of cash.
Taxis are fairly easy to get on the Calle del Arsenal, Calle de la Media Luna, around the Plaza de la Trinidad, or on the promenade that crosses to Centro.
For purposes of prices, Getsemaní is considered part of the Centro, but because it’s a popular area, taxis are likely to try to charge a bit extra than the correct taxi prices in Cartagena, so be aware.
If you’re planning a trip in November, be aware that Getsemaní can get quite rowdy during the November Independence Festival, especially around the Plaza de la Trinidad. It can be good fun, but it isn’t for everyone, so you may want to avoid the area on the day of the main parade and on the day of the Cabildo de Getsemaní.
Finally, as noted in the historical section, this neighborhood has a long and storied history that is very significant to the cultural heritage of Cartagena.
While it’s been gentrified, locals do still live here, so try to respect that even if you’ve come to enjoy yourself and party.
And please don’t treat the place like a public toilet or trashcan!
Ready to Visit the Storied Getsemaní Neighborhood Yourself?
There you have it, a guide to Cartagena’s hip but historic Getsemaní neighborhood. I hope you found it useful, that you learned a bit of insight into the area’s neat history and character, and it helps you get the most out of your time in Getsemaní and Cartagena.
Most of all, I hope you have a great time exploring Getsemaní! Let me know in the comments what your favorite spots were.
Cheers and Happy Exploring!
Planning a trip to Cartagena?
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In particular, you might want to check out my complete guide to planning a trip to Cartagena, my guide to the best areas to stay, my list of over 75 things to do, my picks for the best Cartagena tours, the best day trips from Cartagena, my suggested packing list, my guide to the Rosario Islands, and my guide to all the beaches of Cartagena.
