What to Expect During the Cartagena Independence Day November Carnival

Do you enjoy partying in the street?

Parades?

Some rowdy fun spraying foam at other partiers?

Then, you’ll love the Cartagena Independence Day Festivities!

Also known as the Cartagena November Festivities, Fiestas de noviembre or simply Novembrinas in Spanish, the city holds a grand celebration every year in honor of the city’s declaration of independence in November 1811.

It’s sort of like a Cartagena Carnival, only the Independence of Cartagena Festivities take place in November and not in the February/March period before Lent.

This was always one of my favorite times of the year while I was living in Cartagena. I always had a blast during the Cartagena Independence Day Fiestas, and it can be a great way to enjoy a unique experience.

The Independence Carnival of Cartagena is not for everyone though, and there are some important things to keep in mind if you think you’d like to visit Cartagena in November.

Read on for a guide to the Cartagena Independence Festivities and what to expect if you think you might want to celebrate Cartagena Independence Day partying in the streets yourself.

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When is the Cartagena Carnival or Independence Festival?

The Cartagena Independence Day Festivities, sometimes referred to as the Cartagena Carnival, are held every year during the week of November 11, the anniversary of the city’s declaration of Independence in 1811.

If the 11th falls on a Sunday or Monday, the November Fiestas are usually held in the week immediately preceding it.

Return of the Cartagena November Festivities

While a certain unfortunate virus meant there were little to no events for Cartagena Independence Day in 2020 and 2021, the Cartagena Carnival more or less was held in full in 2022.

The 2023 Cartagena Independence Festivities should be even bigger and better!

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2023 Schedule

The full schedule for the Cartagena Independence Day celebrations was released at the start of October, and the first prelude events took place on the weekend of October 13 and 14.

Events will really start to gear up from November 3 to November 12. The biggest event of the week is the parade, which will be held on Thursday November 9 this year.

There are several events that should include live music and the participation of the candidates for Miss Independence throughout the week as well.

In a nice touch many of these events, even the crowning of Miss Independence, will be held in the Plaza de la Aduana, the large plaza diagonal from the Clocktower overlooked by Hard Rock Cafe and lots of banks. These events are open air and should be free, but expect lines and barriers up for crowd control.

The link below has the full day by day schedule (scroll down since there is some introduction about what to expect generally, which you’re getting lots more details about here!).

*Click here to see the schedule for the 2023 Cartagena Independence Day Carnival

History Behind Cartagena Independence Day

On November 11, 1811 (11/11/11), Cartagena declared itself and the surrounding area to be the independent and sovereign Free State of Cartagena.

Unlike the declaration of temporary autonomy that had been made in Bogotá in July of the year before and usually celebrated as Colombian Independence Day, Cartagena took the further step of declaring absolute independence from the Spanish.

*Read more about Cartagena’s Declaration of Independence

The government of the Free State of Cartagena was effectively the first fully functioning fully independent state in what came to be modern day Colombia, known at the time as the colony of New Granada. The city adopted its present day flag and seal as symbols of the newly founded state.

The city’s declaration is considered a decisive moment in the movement for Colombian independence, and undoubtedly sped up the process of full separation from Spain in the rest of the colony of New Granada.

The Free State of Cartagena period was also interesting as it ushered in full legal racial equality. Afro-Colombians like Pedro Romero played a key role in the events of independence and the republic’s governance.

For a really fascinating look at a unique aspect of this period, my favorite book on Cartagena’s history is No Limits to their Sway about the free state era’s privateers, many of them freed slaves from Haiti (read my review of it here).

Cartagena’s leaders had declared they would defend their independence to the last drop of blood, and they nearly did, as the city suffered a protracted siege that left much of its population starved during the Spanish reconquest in 1815.

It would be one of the last areas of Colombia to be rid of the Spanish for good, only being re-liberated again in 1821, two years after the decisive Battle of Boyacá that liberated much of the rest of Colombia.

Today, the Cartagena Independence Day celebrations commemorate that decisive role played by the city in Colombia’s independence. 

It is also a celebration of the city’s unique Afro-influenced Caribbean culture. Like many other carnivals around the world, it also developed historically as an egalitarian celebration where the common people could cut loose and celebrate, even rubbing shoulders with the elite.

And, well it’s an all around great time!

Read on to find out about all that goes on during this week long party centered around Cartagena’s Independence Day.

What to Do During Independence of Cartagena Festivities

Party, that’s what!

Here is a run down of the main events and things that normally go on as part of the Cartagena Independence Day Festival.

Cartagena Independence Day Parade

The main attraction during the celebration of Cartagena’s Independence Day is a massive parade.  This is often called the El Bando de Independencia or even simply El Bando.

There used to be two big parades, one on Thursday and one on the 11th itself.

The last few years, partly because of where the 11th has fallen on the calendar and partly because the National Beauty Pageant was temporarily moved to another time of the year (more on that below), there has just been one massive parade on the Thursday before the 11th.

We’ll see if there is just one or two parades for 2023 since the 11th falls on a Saturday this year. Be sure to check that link above where I’ll be updating the schedule!

Update: and now we have it confirmed, there will be one big parade on Thursday November 9th. The Cabildo de Getsemaní, which includes a parade through Getsemaní will be held on Sunday November 12th though.

The main Independence of Cartagena parade(s) goes down the Avenida Santander starting at the entrance of Crespo and along the waterfront to the end of the Centro at Parque La Marina. 

Tickets can be bought to sit on bleachers in front of the walls in Centro or parade goers can see the action from the streets in Marbella and El Cabrero.

During the parade, you’ll see lots of people in costumes. Some costumes represent the Spanish, indigenous peoples, and the independence fighters.

There are also some funny and odd ball ones. For example, you’ll probably see some Marimonda masks. The Marimonda actually originated in Barranquilla’s Carnival and was a way for the common people to mock the elite. It’s got a really long pointed nose below two round eyes, that represents exactly what your dirty mind made you think of.

One year, I even saw a geriatric Superman.

You’ll also see lots of groups dressed in beautiful and colorful costumes that represent Cartagena’s Caribbean culture.

Some of them are really elaborate, and many of the groups participating in the Cartagena Carnival parade will have neat choreography and dances.

Finally, there will be floats with the beauty queens.

If you get lucky, one may even throw you a rose!

Much better than geriatric Superman blowing you a kiss!

A Note on Safety During the Independence Carnival in Cartagena

This is probably a good moment to pause for a word of warning. The parade can get quite rowdy.

People spray espuma (foam), throw maizena (corn starch), and even rub paint on each other. People also throw buscapies (little firecrackers, whose name best translates as “feet finders” in English). 

So, you need to wear clothes that you don’t mind getting ruined.

Oh and wear proper, closed toe shoes too!

Trust me, I learned that the hard way my first year in Cartagena!

While I had a great time, I’ll never forget my first experience getting in espuma fights and hearing all the firecrackers go off during the Bando de San Diego (which they actually don’t do anymore because it got so wild).

I made the mistake of wearing flip flops, not knowing what to expect.

Not only did I get burned by a buscapie, but I also had a flip flop fall apart! I ended up walking around town with one foot barefoot. While I had a great time and it’s a funny memory now, well, yea, you should wear shoes.

It’s also worth pointing out that it’s not unheard of for pickpockets to spray someone in the eyes with espuma before grabbing what they can out of their pockets. I’ve heard of this happening the a few people, and a good friend had her iPhone stolen one year in a large crowd during the Cartagena November Carnival.

There are also occasionally fights that break out. 

While the overwhelming majority of people are simply looking to have a good time, it’s best to leave valuables at home and carry small amounts of cash. If you can, separate your cash. Stashing some in a sock or something. Bringing along a belt, neck, or bra safety pouch is also a good idea.

Also, I highly encourage you to take getting sprayed in stride.

In my experience living for over a decade in Cartagena, people sometimes get a kick out of picking on the gringo in the crowd.

Little did they know, I always made sure I was well stocked with some espuma of my own! I’ve thrown a few buscapies in my day too.

Keep a sense or humor about it all, and get in on the action yourself.

Acting a bit loco is part of the tradition.

Do make sure you stay safe though, and also be a good sport too by throwing your buscapies along the ground, not in people’s faces and trying not to spray your espuma in people’s eyes.

Oh, that reminds me, having along some sunglasses is useful to keep it out of your eyes.

This is probably the part where I need to say if you’re reading all this and getting a big squeamish, you might have second thoughts about participating in the Cartagena Independence Day festivities.

They truth is , they are not for everyone, and this is really one of those things where personal preference comes into play. 

If you hate being in crowds, aren’t willing to get a little (ok probably a lot) dirty, or just hate the idea of having people spray you with foam, you either need to make friends with someone who has a sweet balcony on the Avenida Santander or just sit out the main parade.

By the way, speaking of that, you might also want to check out my post identifying of great places to stay during the Cartagena Independence Festivities if you want to stay somewhere close to the parade. Some of the places on that list do have balconies where you could watch it without being totally in the fray.

I know I appreciated when we lived in an apartment building along the route, and we could be down in the street when we wanted but also escape to the pool side balcony when we needed a break from the crowd.

To be honest though, if all of this sounds really unpleasant to you, you may want to consider avoiding the city altogether and travel elsewhere during the Independence of Cartagena Festival.

Do please check out the Other Destinations section if that’s the case! For example, traveling up the coast to Tayrona Park, Minca, or Palomino could be good options. Or you could head for some extended beach relax time at a one of the resorts in the Rosario Islands, in the San Bernardo Islands, or at Rincón del Mar.

However, I personally find the rowdiness of it all a lot of fun!

There’s nothing like getting into an epic espuma fight, and well the maizena and paint rubbed in your face is just the price you gotta pay.

And, if you’re up for it, I think there’s a good chance you will enjoy the Cartagena Independence Fiestas too. Just keep these things in mind so you know what to expect and are not surprised with a face full of espuma and maizena.

Seriously, don’t let it surprise you, because you definitely don’t want to gasp and get a mouthful of it!

And if all this sounds like loads of fun, then I encourage you to also check out the Festival de Blancos y Negros in Pasto, held in January, and the Barranquilla Carnival held around Fat Tuesday and the traditional Carnival and Mardi Gras week.

Oh and one more quick word of advice.

The whole week there will guys walking around either covered in or with a bottle of paint (or sometimes just nasty water), and threatening to rub it on you if you don’t give them a few pesos, so keep some spare change with you.

Other Cartagena Independence Week Parades

There are a number of other parades that take place during the week in various parts of the city. 

There is a LGBT Pride Parade that is usually held on the Friday or Saturday and normally goes through Centro and/or Getsemaní.

Also the Cabildo de Getsemaní, sometimes also called the Bando de Getsemaní, is usually held on November 11th (for 2022 it was on Sunday November 13th since the main parade was on the 11th). It is a parade goes through several barrios before arriving to the Plaza de la Trinidad in the neighborhood of Getsemaní just outside of the Centro.

Getsemaní was incredibly important to the history of independence. It usually has a much more local, historical, and cultural focus than the bigger main parade. I’d probably not recommend most tourists take part in the start of the parade as it passes through some lesser traveled neighborhoods that aren’t the safest, but once it’s in Getsemaní, you should feel plenty safe participating.

There may be other parades in different parts of the city.  Often there is a student parade at some point during the week. 

See the full 2023 schedule here.

What Do Beauty Queens Have to Do with the Independence of Cartagena?

Beauty pageants are a big deal in Colombia.

Whether that’s a good thing or not is a debate I’m not getting into in this guide, but it’s not debatable they are a big deal. Just ask Steve Harvey what Colombians thought of him after his mess up a few years back in Miss Universe.

During the Cartagena November Fiestas the city crowns a Queen of Independence known as the Reina de Independencia or Reina Popular.

Most of the neighborhoods in the city have a candidate, and people really show out to support their neighborhood’s candidate. The candidates will participate in the main parade and have floats where they can wave to their fans.

They also normally participate in the events in the weeks before Cartagena Independence Day, known as preludes.

During the Cartagena Carnival week, there are a number of events that are part of the pageant too, like a bikini night, talent show, and night where they wear neat dresses that pay homage to aspects of Cartagena’s culture and history.

Usually, these events are free, held in one of the big plazas in the Centro, and have live music performances. They’re definitely worth checking out if you are in town during the week of Cartagena Independence Week.

The National Beauty Pageant that names Miss Colombia has also traditionally been held during the Cartagena Independence Day Celebrations. It attracts a lot of glitz, glamour, and Colombian elites and gets lots of national coverage. I believe it being held during the Independence of Cartagena originated as a way to encourage increased tourism to the city.

Several years back there was a bit of a debate about whether Miss Colombia being held during the week was appropriate or if it distracted from the celebration of the city itself. I also believe there was a desire to create another big travel week, and the national pageant was held in March for a year or two.

However, it’s since been moved back, presumably permanently to the week of Cartagena Independence Day.

Update: Actually, the organizers of the Miss Colombia pageant have announced it will not be held at all this year. According to the director, they are facing financial difficulties and want to have a larger event next year for the 90th anniversary of the pageant. You can read more about why in this article in Spanish.

The two beauty pageants provide an interesting contrast between the nation’s posh elite and the city’s locals. Events for the national pageant usually are private, but the candidates usually participate in at least the main parade and some of the other events that the local beauty queens participate in, like appearances at the mall.

This excellent article and partner photo gallery was published in the New York Times back in 2010 about the two beauty pageants. I remember reading that shortly before I came to live in Cartagena in January 2011 and found it to be a good read if you are in the mood for some social commentary. I will say I do think some aspects of the dynamics in that article have shifted a bit, but it’s an interesting read.

Concerts

There are often concerts held in conjunction with the Cartagena Independence Festivities. Some include parts of the local pageant like the bikini catwalk. Others are just performances. For example, there’s always a salsa in the plaza night.

Be on the lookout in particular around the Clocktower and elsewhere in Centro for stages being set up.

Club Colombia often does an Oktoberfest with famous musical artists that culminates in Cartagena the weekend before November 11, kicking off the week long festivities. It is usually set up in front of the convention center diagonal from the Clocktower. We’ve enjoyed going to this quite a few times. Usually, you have to pay an entrance fee and it comes with tickets you can redeem for like 4 beers.

They also usually host a festival with live music the night of the Cartagena Independence Day Parade and possibly through the weekend following the parade.

Enjoy the Party

At the end of it all, the Cartagena Independence Festivities are just one big week long fiesta.

While many of the “main events” will take place in the tourist circle around Centro, there will be smaller parties all around as well.

Expect a lively atmosphere at any local tienda, as most people will be off of work at least during the latter half of the week.

If you happen to befriend some locals, see if you can get an invitation to a fiesta in one of the more residential barrios, as they are a lot of fun! Especially expect the espuma, maizena, and buscapie action to be heightened, but good natured.

More than anything make sure you’ve got a can of Aguila in one hand and a can of espuma in the other to live it up (or as they say in Colombia, gozala!)

Tips for Enjoying the Cartagena Independence Festivities

• As mentioned above, be sure to wear clothes you don’t mind being ruined as you are likely to end up with paint, corn starch, beer, and probably all sorts of other grime covering them.
• Be sure to wear closed toed shoes to avoid the buscapies.
• It is not uncommon for crooks to spray you in the eyes with foam before pickpocketing you, and I know a few people who have had that happen to them. Also, there are big crowds and pickpockets love that any time of year. For that reason, it is best to leave all valuables at home and only carry a small amount of cash. Consider carrying a belt, neck, or bra safety pouch as well.
• Finally, sometimes fights do break out during the parade, in particular between gangs. Unless you’ve somehow managed to be inducted into a gang in Cartagena, you should be fine as long as you move out of the fray and don’t decide you’re going to inject yourself into it.

There you have it, a complete guide to what to expect during the Cartagena Independence Day Fiestas. Like I said, I always really looked forward to this week and generally had a blast. It can be rowdy though, and so do keep in mind what to expect and the tips here.

If you do decide to come celebrate the Cartagena November Fiestas, I hope this post helped you plan your trip, and most importantly, that you enjoy them to the fullest!

Cheers and Happy Exploring!

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This article was originally published as part of an 11 part series on the celebration of and history behind Cartagena’s Independence I did in 2018.  Check out the other parts below:

• Part 2:  Why Did Cartagena Declare Independence? – Historic Background to November 11
• Part 3:  Un Once de Noviembre:  Cartagena’s Declaration of Independence
• Part 4:  Biography of Pedro Romero:  Black, Working Class Hero of Cartagena’s Independence
• Part 5:  Cartagena’s Patriotic Symbols – The Meaning of the City’s Flag, Seal, and Anthem
• Part 6:  Simón Bolívar in Cartagena – A Critical Look at the Liberator’s Cartagena Manifesto
• Part 7:  The Siege of Cartagena – La Heroica Bravely Resists the Spanish Reconquest
• Part 8:  Cartagena’s 9 Martyrs – Remembering the Spanish Occupation
• Part 9:  The Liberation of Cartagena – La Heroica Rids Itself of the Spanish for Good
• Part 10:  Schedule for Cartagena Independence Week
• Part 11:  Consequences Cartagena’s of Independence